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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.